How to look after your scuba gear

Prevent Regulator failure, Learn how to look after your Equipment

Regulator Maintenance

Regulator must be serviced by a trained technician at least once a year. If you use your regulator extensively or commercially, it should be serviced every six months or every 50 dives. This will entail bringing in your warranty in order to save money on parts and in some instances, labour (which is seldom included in the warranty). Kirra’s services all makes and models of regulators.

A competent inspection will usually reveal whether or not the regulator is in need of an overhaul or a simple cleaning or tune-up. No amount of washing or careful use can entirely prevent your regulator from becoming out of tune. A simple tune-up will usually involve adjusting the first stage valve to the correct intermediate pressure, along with perhaps a second stage adjustment as well.

Cleaning

The most important maintenance procedure you can perform on your regulator is a complete, fresh water rinse immediately after, or within a few hours of your last dive. Even if you don’t have a chance to rinse off your other equipment right away, try to see that your regulator gets a fresh water rinse as soon as possible, regardless of whether you have been diving in salt or fresh water.

If allowed to remain inside your regulator, dried salt crystals and sand particles can damage the precision parts inside. the chlorine and acids in swimming pools, as well as the mineral and alkaline deposits present in fresh water lakes and rivers can also cause corrosion and damage to many regulator components.

To properly rinse a regulator:

1. Make sure the dust cap is securely in place on the first stage air inlet and that it has a watertight seal.
2. Use warm (not hot) water to rinse or soak your regulator. This will dissolve any dried salt crystals that may have accumulated in the interior.
3. Direct a low pressure stream of fresh water over the first stage, and allow it to run freely through any open ports. If your first stage uses a piston-type valve, pay attention to rinsing all salt and sand out of the water chamber, as sand particles or salt build-up can interfere with the operation of the piston by causing damage to the piston o-ring.
4. Rinse the second stage by directing a stream of fresh water into the mouthpiece and allowing it to exit through the exhaust tee. Flush water around and outside of the entire second stage, concentrating on the swivels, and LP and HP cracks and crevices. Do not push the purge button, unless you are holding the hose and first stage high above the second stage and away from the water, or unless the regulator is pressurized on the tank.
5. Another option is to immerse the entire assembly in a tub of warm water, always ensuring that the watertight dust cap is securely in place. This would be advisable if a period of time has lapsed after your dive without rinsing the regulator. Allow the regulator to soak for five to ten minutes, sloshing it around to loosen any stubborn particles.
6. The purge button should never be pushed while the regulator is completely immersed in water. This opens the second stage valve, allowing water to flow through the hose and back into the interior of the first stage assembly. Remove the yoke screw and rinse the yoke and screw threads while holding the dust cap in place. After rinsing, lubricate lightly with silicone spray.
7. Allow the regulator to dry thoroughly before storing it. Always dry it away from direct sunlight to protect the rubber parts.

Scuba Tank Maintenance

In addition to ensuring that water is never allowed to enter or form inside your tank, you should take the following precautions in handling and maintaining your scuba tank.

1. Do not store tanks that are full of air for prolonged periods of time (no more than 3 months. A tank should be stored with just enough pressure (50 bar) to keep moisture out. Remember the higher the tank pressure, the greater the corrosion that may form inside.
2. Your tank should receive a visual inspection at least once a year. If the tank is in constant use or in constantly filled around salt air, then it should be visually inspected every three to six months.
3. You must have the tank hydrostatically tested every year. This should only be performed by a reputable hydro testing facility that is able to totally service your tank, include testing, cleaning, drying and painting.
4. Always give your tank a fresh water rinse before putting it away. Be sure the tank valve is closed when running water over it.
5. Do not overfill your tank past stamped ratings. This place too much stress on the metal, causing the tank to weaken over a period of time. Overfilling a tank time after time is hazardous and can weaken the metal.
6. Avoid rough handling that will cause dents, gouges or nicks in the tank. This can invite corrosion of the metal and can also weaken the cylinder.
7. Always store tanks in a vertical position unless otherwise recommended by a visual inspector. If there is any moisture in the tank, corrosion may form at the bottom of the tank, which is the thickest part of the tank wall.
8. If you see or smell anything coming out of the tank valve, corrosion or contamination may be suspected. If you rap on the side of the tank and hear anything rattling around inside, the tank must be opened for a visual inspection.
9. If water is found inside the tank, but corrosion has not yet become pronounced, the tank can be rinsed in fresh water or steam cleaned, then dried thoroughly with warm air. It is always best to let a qualified inspector determine the extent of the corrosion.
10. If you suspect anything wrong with your scuba cylinder, always have it visually inspected by a professional dive shop or a reputable repair facility.

Keeping Moisture Out of Your Tank

The obvious way to prevent corrosion in both aluminium and steel tanks is to prevent water from coming in contact with the tank metal for any length of time. The following recommendations will insure that water will not have a chance to damage your tank.

Never drain the air completely out of a scuba cylinder, and never leave the valve open if you do. If you do drain a tank completely dry during a dive, close the tank valve immediately. Then, at the earliest opportunity, the valve should be removed to check for water in the interior of the tank.

Never let the air escape from the tank rapidly. if you must let the air out of your tank, do it slowly. the best method is to immerse the tank in shallow water with the valve above water, and slowly let the air escape. Emptying the tank in a hurry will cause condensation of moisture to form on the interior of the tank. As the air inside expands rapidly, it will also cool very rapidly, giving up some of it’s vapours in the process.

Make sure all fittings are dry when attaching a regulator or a filler nozzle from a compressor to the tank valve. One way to insure this is to momentarily open the tank valve and purge it before filling the tank or attaching the regulator. This will blow away any drops of moisture that may have accumulated near the opening. If even a few drops of water enter the tank, they can cause corrosion inside the tank over a period of a few short months.

When washing your tank, pay attention to the tank boot and the backpack attachments. Water trapped in tightly fitted areas may enter small nicks and scratches and begin corrosion on the exterior of the tank.

BCD Care and Cleaning

Always wash the BCD after each dive with fresh water, flushing both inside and out, and between the inner and outer bags if it is a double bag construction. Never use solvents (such as alcohol or paint thinner) since they may attack the fabrics, bladders, glues or fasteners.

Fresh water is all that is normally needed to clean your BCD, though you may use a mild liquid detergent diluted in fresh water or a commercial BCD conditioner in the final rinse to inhibit the growth of mould or mildew and to keep the BCD fresh and odour-free.

Cleaning is especially recommended immediately after use in a chlorinated pool, as chlorinated water will quickly break down rubbers and plastics. Most manufacturers also recommend regular an annual servicing consisting of cleaning, inspection and lubrication of specified parts. In fact, many manufacturers offer limited lifetime warranties that remain valid only if the BCD is serviced annually.

The best way to prevent the growth of harmful moulds and bacteria is to use the BCD frequently in salt water. Salt water effectively inhibits the growth of fungus and moulds, and most materials used in the BCD (with the exception of some detonating mechanisms) are impervious to salt water. However, once evaporated, salt water will leave salt crystals—some large enough to act like pieces of glass and tear or rupture the bag. A good internal rinse will eliminate this.

To clean BCD component parts, direct a stream of water into the mouthpiece of the oral inflator valve, and drain the water back thorough the mouth piece. If your BCD so allows, remove the over pressure relief valve assembly and rinse all components. Because the over pressure valves are low pressure valves, they have the potential of not completely reseating. It is important to run fresh water through the bladder after every dive and then inflate the unit with the valve positioned down so the water will flush the valve as the valve actuates.

To drain the water from the BCD, reinstall the over pressure relief valve, and orally inflate the vest. Turn the vest upside down so that the drain hose is at the lowest point. Depress the inflator button and squeeze the vest. The sudden rush of air should force the remaining water to exit from the interior of the vest through the inflator hose.

Back flush the auto inflator with clean fresh water by filling the BC (which has already been rinsed clean) and then flushing out the water though the mail quick disconnect fitting.Buoyancy compensators should be stored partially inflated. For prolonged storage, a small amount of silicone lubricant may be applied to the rubber parts of the BCD, but do not spray silicone inside the bag itself or on to the oral or power inflator mouthpiece assemblies. Store the BCD with the hose on the downward side, so that residual moisture drains to the hose assembly. Then after a day or two, depress the inflator button to allow any residual water to drain.

Mask Snorkel and Fins Maintenance

Breaking in New Equipment

After purchasing a mask, snorkel or set of fins, remove the manufacturer’s shipping preservative from the equipment before using it. Many rubber products are coated with ozone and ultraviolet inhibitors by the manufacturer, which will often appear as a white waxy substance on the rubber. The preservative may easily be removed with a mild abrasive such as tooth paste or ordinary kitchen cleanser. Scrub the lens of the mask thoroughly inside and out. If this is not done when the mask is new, the mask will have a tendency to always fog up when you dive.

Mask Lens

Inspect for nicks, cracks or chips in the lens of the mask. Never dive with a chipped or cracked lens. If you have prescription lens in your mask, ask for the plain glass lens that was taken out to put the prescription lens in.

Lens Retaining Ring

Inspect for any defects such as cracks, broken spot welds, stripped screws, or loose nuts that will affect the security of the retaining ring.Purge ValveIf your mask has a purge valve, check it for any signs of leakage or deterioration, making sure the valve operates freely. With the mask held securely to your face, you should be able to force air out the purge valve by exhaling. Then inhale to check that the purge valve seals properly. No air should enter the mask through the purge valve.StrapsCheck the mask and fin straps for any signs of deterioration or distortion of the rubber. Flex the rubber gently when dry and look for signs of cracking and brittleness which will be most noticeable where the straps bend around the buckles.SnorkelCheck for any looseness or separation around the mouthpiece, checking to ensure that the mouthpiece has not been bitten through and is free of cracks. The swivel joints on many snorkels should be disassembled in order to remove any debris or sand particles. Scrub the area lightly with a toothbrush, then reassemble. For snorkels with purge valves, check for any warping or cracking of the valve, and make sure it has been rinsed free from any debris and particles that could clog it.

Attachment Buckles

Check the mask and fin strap attachment buckles or holder for any signs of distortion or cracking. Check any retaining screws or pins for security, and occasionally tighten when needed.

Fins

If your fins are constructed of a combination of neoprene and plastic, don’t forget to check for signs of deterioration in the neoprene foot pocket. While the newer plastic materials used in the fin blade may be impervious to deterioration, the neoprene foot pocket will deteriorate if not properly protected from harmful elements such as chlorine, ozone, or ultraviolet rays.

Mask Cleaning

After each use, rinse thoroughly in fresh, warm water (not hot) to remove chlorine, sand, or any encrusted salt particles that have accumulated on the lens of the mask or in the narrow recesses around the lens retaining ring. Occasionally wash in warm, soapy water, followed by a thorough rinsing to remove traces of the chlorine, perspiration salt or lotions that may collect on the rubber over a period of time through normal use.

Prior to Storage

Allow the equipment to dry thoroughly before storage, but do not expose it to sunlight or heat for an extended period of time. The new plastic materials being used for masks, fins and snorkels require more protection from heat (such as car trunks, direct sun, around swimming pools, etc.) as heat exposure can cause warping or distortions. For prolonged periods of storage, remove the straps from masks and fins to relieve the stress on the rubber. The rubber may be coated with silicone lubricant to prevent drying and cracking, but avoid spraying the lens of the mask with silicone or grease as this will prevent it from defogging properly when diving. Surgical grade silicone masks should not be stored or carried in the same bag as other black neoprene products, as they may change colour when exposed to black rubber.

Mask and Fin Straps

Pay special attention to your mask and fin strap holders and buckles by taking care to rinse out the sand and salt particles that may have become lodged in the holder assemblies. With the new style quick release strap holders, relaxing the tension on the straps after each dive will contribute to their longevity.Many mask and fin strap holders, or buckles, have an exclusive design which requires straps that are available only from the manufacturer. Be sure to carry replacement straps that fit your particular fin or mask design.

Wetsuit Care

After diving wash thoroughly with warm, fresh water. If possible, soak your suit in a large tub, giving it several fresh water rinses. To help protect the rubber and eliminate odours, periodically rinse the suit with a commercial wetsuit conditioner or with a mixture of baking soda and water. It is recommended that you use a fabric softener for the final rinse of neoprene articles to increase their life.

While washing, check for leaks or tears, especially around the seams, knees and the seat. Fill different parts of the wetsuit with water to create a balloon effect and mark any spots where the water leaks out. Repairs should be made only after the suit is completely dry. While rinsing, work the zippers and twist locks to insure that all salt or sand particles are rinsed free.

After rinsing the suit, it is best to hang it up and let it air dry completely. Use very wide hangers to prevent creasing the rubber or stretching the suit. After the suit is dry, lubricate metal wetsuit zippers with silicone or beeswax to prevent corrosion and to ensure smooth operation for future dives.

Make sure the suit is completely dry before storage, and always store it at a constant temperature away from smog, heat and sunlight. If it is stored on a hanger, use an extra-wide, smooth hanger. Never fold or stuff a wetsuit into a diving bag for storage. You may also store your wetsuit in a large plastic bag, such as a trash bag, sealed tightly to protect it from exposure to ozone, smog or gas fumes from your garage that would attack the rubber. Just ensure that it is perfectly dry first.

Wetsuit RepairsWetsuits are susceptible to snags and tears from abrasive surfaces and sharp objects. Small tears and gouges can be easily repaired with a can of wetsuit cement, and large holes can be repaired with a neoprene patch. Commercial wetsuit cement easy to use and is available at Kirra Dive Centre.

As your wetsuit, gloves and booties start showing wear, they can be given a longer life by applying one of the many brush on liquids now available for just this purpose. Simply make sure the item is clean and dry, then brush it on with an applicator or spatula. While doing the glove palms or booty soles, fine sand can be added to give them a much better grip.

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